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Santarém |
Other opinions
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My Great Door to the world
Forty years ago, when the dictatorship kept us inside the hard to cross borders of an undeveloped country, I met, in Santarém an opened door to the world. The Folklore Festival was the highest point of the National Agricultural Exhibition, and a rare opportunity to meet other cultures and civilizations. That's a long... long story, but the first time I went further than Spain, it was from Santarém with two local friends, and that's where my travel "disease" really started. |
City Hall
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City Hall occupies since 1954 a palace called "Eugénio Silva" one of the owners in the 19th century, however the palace was built in the 17th for Meneses family. It is a sober and nice construction, with two beautiful halls. The garden and the facing square were recently embellished. |
City centre
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Once called the Portuguese Gothic capital, decadence vanished most signs of that time. Decadence is a word that hurts the conscience of several generations in Santarém, however, the centre of the city still keeps a few traces of the old days, and recent recuperation works saved enough to turn a stroll in the small old city an interesting pleasure. 
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Portas do Sol
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An old Moorish castle, overlooking the river, is one of the best spots of Santarém. Still keeping the medieval walls, the sights over the marshy banks of Tejo extend past Almeirim and Alpiarça. It is a very nice and calm visit, in the centre of town, surrounded by gardens and the historic area. |
Alcaçova and S. João de Alporão
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Located in Portas do Sol area, this is one of the oldest churches in Portugal, built in the 12th century immediately after the conquest of Santarém by the Portuguese from the moors.
However, its actual look is mainly the result of recuperation works in the 18th century. S João de Alporão church
This church, in the old city, was built in the 13th century, and shows the transition from Roman to Gothic styles. |
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"Torre das cabaças"
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This square tower, about 26 meters high was built in the 15th century, and got its name from eight pieces of clay with the shape of a calabash, used to amplify the bell's sound. It is located in the historic centre, close to Marvila church. |
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Marvila church
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This Gothic church, in the centre of the city, was restored in the 16th century by order of king Manuel I, which justifies some Manueline elements. It also has some beautiful tiles from the 17th century. |
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Misericordia church
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Built in the 16th century, this church in late Renaissance style suffered a few modifications, mainly in the facade, damaged by Lisbon earthquake. Rebuilt in Baroque style, this facade already includes a few Rococo elements. Centrally located in the old town, it's easy to visit this church. |
Christ's church
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Many names for a single church -"Convento de Nossa Senhora de Jesus do Sítio", "Igreja do Hospital" or "Igreja de Cristo" mean the same - a convent from the final of the 17th century, located in the centre of the city, near southern entrance. The convent now houses a school, but the church is a national monument, and annexed to it there's St Francis golden chapel, one of the best gems of Portuguese Baroque. |
Garden
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For a long time a large avenue, the central area of town became a modern garden, pushing the cars to one side. Not too dense, nor inviting to rest, it has some modern sculptures and fountains, covering a subterranean park. I don't know how much did it cost, but as usually in these things, I may guess that it was much more than the amount that the improvement justified. |
Agriculture
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Santarém is one of the most distinguishable cities of Portugal dealing with agriculture. The National Fair, the high school, and the cultural connections to the traditional activities are signs of the way that Santarém lives with nature. However, I was not expecting to find, in a gardened area in the centre of the city, the wonderful image of a tree where the "flowers" were... medlars. |
Roundabouts
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With the recent trend in all municipalities to build roundabouts wherever they can, Santarém couldn't stay out of it.
The common decoration goes from a wild garden, if they may spend money, to a fountain or statue if they may spend much more money. In Santarém the trend is... statues, some of them nice, and, for sure, meaning something that nobody cares to discover. This one, at the western entrance of town, has a legend dating 2001 with the name " I´m my own horse" created by "Santos Lopes". Pleasant spots... at a price. |
"Largo Candido dos Reis"
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Modern Santarém is well integrated with the historic centre. Life flows around a large ax, topped by this square where monuments and new architecture combine well. |
1st of May
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In 1919, we were living the confusion of our first republic, dominated by the dispute between republican leaders and the catholic church. Some excellent examples of possible coexistence did happen, one of them in Santarém, where the organization of the local workers decide to celebrate the priest Francisco José Nunes da Silva, for his important work helping them in each day difficulties. The statue is there, in the 1st May square. |
Piedade church
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Located in Sá da Bandeira square, this church was built in 1664 by king Afonso VI's orders, to celebrate the victory in Ameixial battle. In the so called Portuguese Gothic capital, this is a Mannerist church, decorated with marble inlaids and a few paintings. |
Sá da Bandeira
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The most beautiful square in Santarém is Sá da Bandeira square. Surrounded by classical buildings and churches, the square, closed to traffic, shows in its centre the general's statue, maybe the most remarkable in town. Born in Santarém in 1795, Sá da Bandeira was a very active and important politician in the revolutionary 19th century, whose name was given to Lubango city, in Angola, during Portuguese possession. |
Seminário church
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In 1647, king João IV donated the former Royal Palace to the Jesuits in exchange for the construction of a church. With a mannerist facade, it has a Baroque interior, with marble altars, tiles, and painted ceilings. The facing square is the main "living room" of the city, receiving most of the popular meetings and events in town. |
City Market
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If you ask me what is my first and stronger image of Santarém, I would not hesitate to answer - the market.
I always loved it - 60 years ago because my parents used to buy me there a cake with the shape (and size) of a pigeon, that I couldn't find anywhere else. Now, because it evidences the spirit of town - dynamism and modernity, but with a strong respect for tradition. Built in 1924, is has a typical architecture that combines iron and tiles in a very traditional manner. I do believe that they keep selling "pigeons" there. For sure! |
Prison
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If you visit Santarém you will end asking yourself what will it be a big cupola seen from almost everywhere in town.
If you try to approach, it will disappear behind large walls. That's it. It is a military prison. Built in 1890, I read that it is the most beautiful iron building in Santarém, but... how to visit it? No... I mean how to enter... and exit moments later? |
Graça church
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One of the best examples of Portuguese Gothic, this church from the 14th century is particularly famous for its rose window.
Made from a single stone, it was carved as lace, with a fabulous result. Inside it is buried Pedro Alvares Cabral, who discovered Brazil. 
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S. Francisco convent
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This monument is one of the best examples of Portuguese "Mendicante" Gothic, which means the style used by the monks of St Francis in the middle age. Severely damaged it is being restored, and though the works are slow, it is already possible to see some interesting details. |
Santa Clara Convent
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Close to St Francis church, there's another Gothic temple, from the same period, this one once occupied by the nuns. Though in much better condition than St Francis, this church suffered many transformations, showing today only a few original details. |
Slopes
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Santarém stands atop a steep hill.
The western incline has been softened with construction, with the city unfolding and growing in that direction. The eastern side, facing the river, maintains its abrupt look, with traditional houses and gardened areas filling the slopes. The descent to the river follows a narrow valley, covered by many high and very old trees. |
Train station complex
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The train station, located in a small village called Ribeira de Santarém, two or three kilometers out of town, is a beautiful building from 1927, recently classified as a public monument. In 1979 a secondary building ("Cocheira de carruagens") was transformed in a museum, displaying several engines, documents and crafts connected to the railroad operation and maintenance. For those travelling by train it is wise to reserve some more minutes to look around. |
Ribeira de Santarém
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Ribeira de Santarém it's a rather common village, only a few kilometers from Santarém, by its railway station, but during the frequent flooding periods it becomes one of the centers of national attention, and the calm struggle of its population to face the blessed rising of the waters is a marvelous show. Fortunately they are so prepared for that event that, usually, there are no significant damages in the village. |
Flooding
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Flooding of river Tejo is common, even desired by the population for what it means in fertility. Everybody is used to it, and the calm shown while they take the needed measures to protect their belongings is remarkable. Some incidents may occur, but in Santarém area they are uncommon. |
CNEMA
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For many years the great event that it is our national fair of agriculture took place inside Santarém, in the area surrounding the bullring. It had a special feeling and ambiance, and though knowing nothing about agriculture, after discovering it in 1971, I always tried my best to visit it. Politics and the small area available moved the event out of town, to a wider area a few kilometers south of it. |
The area and the fixed installations got the name of the organization (CNEMA), and, to be honest, I only went there a couple of times.
However, I like the inevitable statue in the roundabout placed to exit the freeway, a very happy representation of the "campinos" leading the bulls.
Unbelievable!
Several months ago I noticed that the statue was removed, for unknown reasons. Reading the blog "Meus caminhos Ribatejo" I realized that it was removed because some savages were stealing everything they could break, to sell in copper black market.
Unbelievable, indeed!
However, I like the inevitable statue in the roundabout placed to exit the freeway, a very happy representation of the "campinos" leading the bulls.
Unbelievable!
Several months ago I noticed that the statue was removed, for unknown reasons. Reading the blog "Meus caminhos Ribatejo" I realized that it was removed because some savages were stealing everything they could break, to sell in copper black market.
Unbelievable, indeed!
Bullfight
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Santarém is the joyful capital of bullfights, and everything concerning bulls is important in local culture and traditions. I'm not a bullfight lover, but I saw one ( and just one) exactly at... Santarém, of course. Even for those who don't like the "corrida", the visit to the fields where the bulls are created in freedom, the contact with the elegant and proud guys that risk their lives in that hard job (campinos), with wine, folklore and fado around, are something to remember, and... part of the party. |
"Forcados"
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The most Portuguese moment in a bullfight is when eight men (forcados) try to immobilize the bull only by arms' force. The top of emotion in the show is when one of them faces and challenges the bull, with the other seven lined behind him not to distract the animal. More than a bravado, being a forcado is a social distinction, with a cultural behavior associated, replacing football as the conversations' theme in the day after. |
Funny that, in the public garden in the center of town, the forcados are represented by a bowling combination. In this game, the pins must beat the ball.
Folklore
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Santarém is one of our "capitals" for folklore events. Local dances and costumes are very beautiful, and they share their pride with all the world, in regular international festivals. While a student I cooperated several times with the organization, there getting the love for that kind of artistic demonstration that I still have. |
"Queima das Fitas"
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Santarém is not an university city, meaning that it has no tradition in that level of teaching, except in agriculture. However, after the revolution of 1974 a Poly-technical Institute was created in the city, and a few more hundred students started to live there, bringing to the day life the common academic traditions. Aware of its rich traditions, it will be funny to see how will Santarém incorporate these new ones. |
Monte chapel
Castle
City pools
