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Leiria district |
Personal notes
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Other opinions
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It's the best of Portugal because...it's mine, but I hope that, after your visit, you'll agree with me.
Centrally located, and by the coast, Leiria's district is strategically positioned to act as a touristic hub for a wide visit to Portugal. The district is minutes away from Lisbon, Coimbra or Santarém, and less than two hours from Porto, Aveiro or Evora. More than that, it has some of the best attractions of Portugal. According to my personal preferences, here my local stars: |
Alcobaça
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The first agricultural school was in Alcobaça, and the place from where agriculture spread to all the country, is still the capital of the most tasteful peaches and other fruits, though in a decreasing quantities, due to price competition from abroad. However, the gem of town is the Monastery, that comes from the beginning of Portugal, and was the agricultural school. Alcobaça is one of the best examples of early Gothic in the whole world |
Alfeizerão
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Alfeizerão is a small village close to S. Martinho do Porto, in the old days at the edge of the water, that receded to the present distance. Small industry and rich agriculture, complement the local ex-libris, the famous Pão-de-Ló de Alfeizerão |
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Aljubarrota is a small city with a giant name. In the 14th century, Portugal was about to lose its independence to the Castilian, defeated in a final battle in this area.
The battle was historically named "Aljubarrota", but its memories are spread in three places - this one gave the name. São Jorge seems to have been the real battlefield, and Batalha received the commemorative monastery. The pillory seems to have been erected almost 200 years later, under the reign of D. Manuel II. |
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Padeira de Aljubarrota
According to a legend, after the battle the Castilian soldiers fled to where they could, and 7 of them found refuge in a bread oven. The baker saw them, and with the shovel she slew them all. True or false, the baker is locally honored, but it does not seem to me that Aljubarrota's bread has gained a great reputation. |
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Bell Tower
The bell tower or Clock Tower dates from the time of D. Sebastião, who spent long time of his youth in the Monastery of Alcobaça. The Tower, symbol of civil power. is separated from the City hall (now the seat of the Parish Councils) constituting a very beautiful and rare architectural model. (from DGPC) |
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Misericórdia church Closing by the north this beautiful central square, this small church is the remains of an old hospital |
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Arrimal is too close for us, and a simple but nice place to visit, so we do it quite often.
Staying there was, ten minutes distant from home, was something "impossible" until this New Year's eve. It was funny! |
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Old Church
The old church of St Anthony was used until the middle of last century. In 1930, a new cemetery was built, stopping the burials in the church's yard. A few years later a thunderstorm cut a tree in the yard in two. Superstition, and the odd image of a live tree split in two halves made the visit to the church and tree become a curiosity, almost a pilgrimage. In 1977 a new church was built in the centre of the village, and the old one was abandoned. The tree is still there, but dead, announcing that everything will disappear soon. |
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Lagoons The main attraction in Arrimal are two small but beautiful lagoons, a few hundred meters apart. A few wild ducks became residents, but the constant presence of men reduces (without stopping) the regular visit of birds and other wild animals. |
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Wells Now only a touristy element, the lagoons were the center of local life in the old days. The domestic animals were lead to the lagoons to drink, and the need to preserve the water for human use justified the opening of wells, even... inside the lagoon. Some locals say that one of the springs has salty water, but I couldn't confirm it. |
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Olive trees During the construction of Alqueva dam, in Alentejo, someone noticed that, among many other things condemned to be submerged, there were a few olive trees many centuries old. They decided to try to save them, and they were transplanted to Arrimal, were they can be seen from the road, well protected and in good condition. |
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Mountain trails Arrimal stays in the middle of the natural park of Aire and Candeeiros mountains, and it is a good starting point to see the park. Starting in one of the lagoons, there are two easy trails that can be followed in less than two hours each. Eastbound there is "Serra da Lua" trail, leading to a small mountain near the village, and westbound "Arco da Memória" leads up Candeeiros mountain to a medieval arch built atop of it. Both trails are well signposted and are easy to follow. |
Ataíja de Cima
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To be absolutely honest, Ataíja has, for me, a single interesting point - a very, very good restaurant.
Is it enough to recommend it? Yes! No doubt for me. |
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When I was a kid, Baleal was an island so close to the coast that, in summer, the sand deposited in that short distance turned it in a ephemera peninsula. Both sides of that stripe of sand were good beaches, protected from surf by the island, one of them (I don't know which one) creating many algae, the other better to swim. Now, the sand connection seems to have become stable, with a road on its top, allowing cars to enter the island, but still providing a beach in each side. The southern one, a several kilometers long beach, linking to Peniche, became a surfers domain, without sacrifice of its wild beauty. |
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Beach Nazaré is (fairly) the top destination among the western beaches of Portugal. However, for those who prefer more quiet and isolated beaches, there's a second line of much quality: Baleal is one of them, and the camping park and the few apartments that line the beach, only in peak months add a significant movement to it. Ten months a year, it is a refreshing "out of the beaten path" for the Portuguese (and other). |
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Surfing If you want to swim, the beach is wide, clean, and generally safe, but the water is cold (as in all the western coast) and most people prefer to learn or practice surf. July-August have the usual problems of crowds, but in all the other months the beach is a space of freedom and health. |
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Number one?
No, I'm not a specialist - as a matter of fact, I never tried surfing. But the enthusiasts that I know, they all merge here, in all their free time. Maybe because the surf is good, maybe because there's a school in place with cheap surfboards' renting and wet suits, maybe because it is not crowded, maybe because parking is easy out of peak days, maybe because it is beautiful, maybe because...yes!In a free day, Tito came expressly from Lisbon, and I spent two relaxing hours watching him and friends "bathing" the surfboards. Cool! |
Batalha
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If you had to choose a single thing to see in Portugal, my advice would be: Batalha. Only 10 km from Leiria, and 17 km from Fatima, this small town is the place for the best Portuguese masterpiece of Gothic churches. Batalha is also a fast growing economy, with several business centers, siding the main roads of the area. |
Benedita
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Land of wine and... more
Located in one of the most important agricultural areas of Portugal - the west - Bombarral was, for decades known as the origin of reasonable wine. It is not a top destination, but it is located close to Lisbon, in a touristy route that leads to Óbidos, Alcobaça, Nazaré and the other main attractions int the centre of Portugal. Thus, it may be an option to a brief stop, and a look "of the beaten path". Furthermore, It was in this discreet small town, that a rich owner decided to build a "out of the context" park. |
China in Bombarral? Well, after seeing so many "Chinas" around the world, why not in Bombarral?
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Quinta dos Loridos Five kilometers from Bombarral, in a big farm called Quinta dos Loridos, a rich man decided to build a park with hundreds of oriental statues. In this carefully planned and maintained "Buddha Eden" it's possible to see a mix of expensive copies of oriental art, from the Xi'an terracotta warriors to several Buddha statues in all the positions. OK, it is kitsch, it is not Portuguese, but it is Portugal, it shows the taste of, at least, one rich Portuguese, and... entrance is only 4 €. Website: http://www.buddhaeden.com/ |
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Mini train It's free to visit but it is large, with a few hills, and may be tiring for those in bad condition. They solved the problem with a mini-train that with more 3 € you may use between a few stops spread over the park. It is really a good solution, only demanding a couple of stops to see everything. |
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Wine Quinta da Bacalhoa is one of Portuguese top brands in wine market. Though the palace of Bacalhoa and the main production are far away, in Setúbal area, there are small vines in this farm. and all their products are available in the shops of the complex. |
The church
The church is a recent building (from 1953) but is has a strange story: the old one, from the 16th century, was burnt in 1918 to... celebrate the end of WW1.
What a celebration...
The church is a recent building (from 1953) but is has a strange story: the old one, from the 16th century, was burnt in 1918 to... celebrate the end of WW1.
What a celebration...
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Municipal museum In a palace from the 16Th century, the local museum, centrally located, shows archaeological artifacts, sculpture and medals, and and has separated rooms to display the works of a couple of individual artists. |
Caldas da Rainha
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Meeting point for art, humor and ceramics, Caldas da Rainha is a hub connecting the touristy area called West.
Loosing to several more visited places in the area, like Óbidos, Nazaré or Alcobaça, this fast growing town also has its interesting points. For the lovers of sweets, Cavacas das Caldas are an exclusive pastry. I forbid myself to show the most typical ceramic artifact of Caldas da Rainha. You must enter any of the several shops to see it, but... you're right - that's it. In several sizes and capacities. |
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From Bem feito to Benfeito
The legend says that D. Gastão, a noble in the middle age, was punished being sent to a oak forest (carvalhal). It should be fair, because the people said "bem feito" (well done), and thus, with the grammatical evolution, the area got the name of Carvalhal Benfeito. Nowadays, it is a small village with less than 2000 dwellers, cultivating hospitality and traditional gastronomy, with a small rural hotel that I never visited (Quinta Japonesa) but without any known restaurant, which means that, to know it, you must follow the best way - make friends. |
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Follow our friends Only two things could, eventually, make me go to the sympathetic village of Carvalhal Benfeito - dancing or a friend's marriage. Well, when the wedding of a dancing friend happened there, merging both reasons made inevitable the visit. However, the party happened far away, so I only had chance to see the church and the surrounding area: simple as expected. |
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To develop
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A new look
I went to Chiqueda many times, always thinking that the natural beauty of the site, the spring of Alcoa river, deserved a better treatment to please visitors. This time we went there to dance, and I noticed that finally something is being done, and though under bad weather, the look is getting better. Ok, they just have to continue. |
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Watermills In the old days, several mills used the strong and constant flow of the spring to work regularly. Times changed, the mills were abandoned, but recently a couple of them were recovered, and at least one of them is already open to visit. A nice view over the past. |
Photo from Parque dos Monges
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Parque dos monges
Now one of the biggest attractions around Alcobaça is located in Chiqueda. It is a large park where children and adult may choose many activities, linked to nature and history. It is a good complement to the mandatory visit of Alcobaça monastery, mainly if you travel in family or group. Address: Rua Quinta das Freiras, nº 10, Chiqueda Directions: GPS Coordinates N 39º 32.476; W 008º 57.323 Phone: +351 262 581 306 Website: http://www.parquedosmonges.com/ |
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"Orthopedic" beach Located a few kilometers south of Peniche this village is known for its high level of iodine, frequented by people with orthopedic problems. |
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Beach A long sandy stripe stretching from the fort to Peniche, is a very popular beach, while, south of the fort the coast becomes rocky and wild. However both sides are widely used - the sand to general beach dwellers, the rocks to sun bathing with high levels of iodine. |
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Fortress Built in the 15th century, the fort was destroyed by Lisbon earthquake, in 1755, and rebuilt a few years later, with a smaller size. Lost its military interest it was recovered and used first a institution for children's holidays ruled by nuns, and since 1974 housing the local recreational association. |
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The church
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Iodine
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An isolated small village near Alcobaça surrounds a monastery for long in ruins. It was the place for women, while the men concentrated in the biggest and most famous monastery of Alcobaça. Everything disappeared except the church, and after a recuperation work, it is now opened to the public, and it will put Cos in the map. I'm sure. |
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The Monastery, of course
A convent from the 12th century was almost totally destroyed, only the church being saved. After a long period of recuperation, it is now open to the public, with beautiful details from the 17th and 18th century. Only 5 to 10 minutes away from Alcobaça it's an easy visit (with Atlantis nearby, to see glassblowers at work). 
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Tiles For many years neglected, this monastery is very beautiful. The church and sacristy are completely covered with tiles from the XVI and XVII centuries, in a surprisingly good condition. The monastery was recently restored and it is a nice and quick visit. |
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Main church This Gothic temple, from the 14th century, shows a Manueline door and a bas relief from the 15th century. Inside a the baptismal sink has also Manueline ornaments. |
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"Cruzeiro" Near the church, a stone with a cross is a religious mark. I don't know from when and what to sign (there are Latin inscriptions but that's not my strongest point) |
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Senhor dos Passos chapel This small chapel, near the main church, has a beautiful Manueline door. Till now, I couldn't find information about its origin. |
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Capuchos
When I was born, there where in Turquel a maximum of 2 cars (my father bought the 5th). Life was limited to a few quilometres, being Alcobaça the distant metropolis and Lisbon the other world. Popular parties assumed a role almost unique in the standards of living of the populations, some settlements specializing on certain dates, which would invariably be associated with the image of the town. Capuchos, in the parish of Évora, is, thus and since |
always, synonymous with St. John, one of the most traditional and popular festivals of the region.
On the other hand, when we investigate any historical detail of any village in the area, we end, without any redress, talking about monks. Curiously, until yesterday, I never needed to associate Capuchos with monks, but ... I was doomed.
Featuring a few minutes in Capuchos, I found myself walking the space of the party that I don't know if it still continues as in the old days, crossing memories and discoveries. I was surprised with the image of the Chapel, recovered and with good look, forcing me to read, and there I was redirected to the inevitable monks.
The Capuchos convent or Santa Maria Magdalene, already in ruins, is now partially recovered. Behind the picnic Park, are the remains of the former convent who gave name to the place, founded by Cardinal D. Henrique in 1566, in connection with the monastery. The Liberal revolutions in the 18th century led to the expulsion of the monks and the convent was degrading, first stripped by monks and then assaulted by the people. It was for a long time just a ruin, but today what's left of it is recovered (blessed tourism). Of the religious buildings, only the chapel named Senhor dos Aflitos, may be seen, with a coat over the door, and only a handful of original tiles.
On the other hand, when we investigate any historical detail of any village in the area, we end, without any redress, talking about monks. Curiously, until yesterday, I never needed to associate Capuchos with monks, but ... I was doomed.
Featuring a few minutes in Capuchos, I found myself walking the space of the party that I don't know if it still continues as in the old days, crossing memories and discoveries. I was surprised with the image of the Chapel, recovered and with good look, forcing me to read, and there I was redirected to the inevitable monks.
The Capuchos convent or Santa Maria Magdalene, already in ruins, is now partially recovered. Behind the picnic Park, are the remains of the former convent who gave name to the place, founded by Cardinal D. Henrique in 1566, in connection with the monastery. The Liberal revolutions in the 18th century led to the expulsion of the monks and the convent was degrading, first stripped by monks and then assaulted by the people. It was for a long time just a ruin, but today what's left of it is recovered (blessed tourism). Of the religious buildings, only the chapel named Senhor dos Aflitos, may be seen, with a coat over the door, and only a handful of original tiles.
Foz do Arelho
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The main beach of Caldas da Rainha, Foz do Arelho, mixes a large oceanic beach, generally with strong but regular surf, and a lagoon, with a large stripe of sand serving both sides.
At short distance from Óbidos, it gathers thousands of dwellers in summer, being visited all year around by those who want to eat the seafood locally produced. With only a few hostels, it takes advantage of the well located campground, and the apartments for short term rentals. |
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Gaeiras is a dynamic village close to Óbidos, where I have... a dynamic friend. They try hard, with some success, to compliment Óbidos activity. |
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Main square The centre of the village has a very traditional look, with a band stand facing the entrance of Casa das Gaeiras, an old mansion with a big garden used in cultural events. |
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Exhibitions A former cellar in Gaeiras is now the place to regular artistic events. Only four kilometers out of main town, it is a nice stop, so be attempt to the advertising to see what is on there during your visit. |
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Óbidos Gaeiras is a small city belonging to Óbidos, and its main attraction, at short distance, is obviously... Óbidos. Either to eat, or to have a drink, or just to meet people, the magnetic power of the city makes it part of everybody's life. |
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What shall I say about Guisado? A dozen of common houses, surrounding a big restaurant where you may eat well and much, it you can have a table in one of their many rooms. Yes, so far, Solar dos Amigos was the only reason to take me to Guisado. |
Leiria
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The district's capital, Leiria, it is not its main attraction, but it is a convenient hub for easy access to most of them. Furthermore, as a matter of fact, it has its own charms (not only the castle and the old quarter), justifying a stop for one or two days. |
Marinha Grande
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Marinha Grande is an industrial city, that in the 18th century became the capital of glass manufacturing. For long a very ugly city, with the boom of tourism, the spectacular glass production led to great investments embellishing the city. The show of glass is almost lost (only my friend Poeiras sem to keep working and the industrial plants don't allow visits), but Marinha Grande is nowadays a nice city, with the glass museum as a special gem |
Martingança
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Martingança is not a tourist destination, but is a growing industrial small city, with a good restaurant and... good friends. Do I need more to visit it? |
Mendiga
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"Lost" in the middle of Aire and Candeeiros National Park, Mendiga is a combination of pure nature with tranquility. |
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A thermal city, Monte Real has an Air Force base, that local people wish to see transformed in a commercial airport to the central Portugal (why not?). It would be a very good idea, but meanwhile, it is only an extra attraction for some lucky kids, regularly allowed to visit the base, while the senior visitors seek thermal treatment. |
Nazaré
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Said to be created by Phoenicians, Nazaré is ethnically different from all the other Portugal. The traditions, the costumes, the language, everything distinguishes them, and the site is magnificent, with a sea that was my dream in all my first 20 years (and more). It shares with Portimão the top of the best places to eat sardines ( I know... I know... Peniche and Sesimbra don't agree with me! But someone must occupy third and fourth places). Nazaré is a must in all the circuits in central Portugal. |
Obidos
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Maybe the most visited attraction of the district is also the more distant from the capital (if we forget Berlengas, still farther, in the ocean). Only 8 km distant from Caldas da Rainha, the walled city of Óbidos is a well maintained medieval town, giving name to the nearby lagoon. |
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To develop
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Until 2017 I think that I only passed once in Pedrógão Grande, without stopping - I did it a few kilometers ahead, to stay a couple of nights in Pedrógão Pequeno, in the other side of Cabril Dam.
After the terrible fire of 2017, curiosity and solidarity mixed to take me to the suffering area in a free weekend. Pedrógão Grande showed as a nice island in a black sea of ashes, but life went on, and recuperation had already started. Somewhat ironic the signs at the entrance, celebrating the firemen. Locals recognize their effort and importance, but not even them could save dozens of people and their belongings. |
Peniche
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The most important harbor in the centre of Portugal, Peniche is, obviously, a city devoted to fish. Grilled sardines or "caldeirada" lead thousands to the local restaurants, while the trip to the Berlengas archipelago are a restricted challenge to a few hundreds a day in summer. Politically Peniche is a symbol of repression, due to the use of the fort as a political prison during dictatorship. The visit is possible, and compelling. |
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After decades just passing by Pombal, (sometimes stopping to eat at Manjar do Marquês, I decided finally to enter town and have a look. Well, time was short, and, for my despair, I couldn't find a place to park (market day?). Only a general look, and the confirmation that it may be better than I thought. |
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Porto de Mós
To develop |
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Castle
To develop |
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S. Pedro church
To develop |
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St Anthony chapel Built in the seventeenth century by popular subscription, it is located on a hill, accessed through a staircase, whith a statue of the saint. Inside there are 17th century tiles and interesting paintings on the walls. |
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Garden
To develop |
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Theatre
To develop |
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Caves
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Administratively downgraded by the recent reform, this village at the entrance of the highway is tightly connected with Leiria, almost as a peripheral quarter. It is known by the quality of the local orchestra, and not much more. |
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Old church Not that old - about 300 years - the church was replaced in 2013 by a new one, thus justifying the name. Wisely, they decided to keep it for minor celebrations, which means that it will maintained. Good! |
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SAMP Music is the main characteristic in the reputation of Pousos. Created in 1873, the musical society has been active since then, mixing tradition with modernity, as the new building testifies. |
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A large beach, it is not one of the best in the district, because it is windy and the sea is rough. Not so crowded as the main beaches in the area, it is used by families and youngsters, attracted by the sportive activities in the beach and the good camping. |
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A few kilometers from Turquel, my home town, Santa Catarina is a nice small town belonging to Caldas da Rainha, that, recently has been embellishing its common spaces. Small and simple, it is a progressive place that deserves that classification as "Vila" |
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The church
I went there to join a couple of friends in their marriage. It has a nice altar, but I couldn't read anything about it. So far... Yes I did! It comes from the 16th century, in Manueline style with Baroque details. The altar, of course... 
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Pillory
Discreet, the pillory testifies the importance of Santa Catarina in medieval days (lost with time). Recent development allowed the promotion to "vila" (small city), after many decades as a village. War memorial
Excuse-me for some emotion, but only now I saw this simple monument in my neighbor Santa Catarina. |
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I was there several times, followed the garden by the church, but never noticed, until now, this statue. It was a shock to find that, in such a small town, five men were killed in the war where I've been... without any casualty.
Five men here, plus three in my Turquel, plus a few thousands elsewhere... I was lucky!
Five men here, plus three in my Turquel, plus a few thousands elsewhere... I was lucky!
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Garden Adjacent to the church, there's a small but nice garden. It's a good place for pictures, and, being in a marriage, the official photographers (and us) took good advantage of it. |
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Sightseeing If you approach Santa Catarina from the west, you may stop in the descent, in a clearly visible sightseeing point one quilometre distant, from where you may enjoy the nice agricultural landscape that surrounds the village. It is also a picnic area. |
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To develop
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S. Martinho do Porto
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A beautiful bay progressively narrowed and shallowed, by the sand deposits, is one of the highlights of a coastal trip, allowing a stop between oz do Arelho and Nazaré. If you want to swim, in S. Martinho do Porto the water is not very clear but it is the safest of our west coast. |
S. Pedro de Moel
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A very old and small village, S. Pedro de Moel was for centuries a summer destination, combining the sea with the national forest. In the middle of last century it started to grow, mainly with summer houses, the reason why it will probably have more houses than inhabitants today. The sea is rough, as commonly in the west coast, but the calm of the well planned village keep attracting faithful visitors. The house of Afonso Lopes Vieira, a good poet and a remote cousin is interesting to visit. |
Tornada
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How many times did I stop in Tornada? Can't remember! One thing I do remember: 99% of the times were to eat in Cortiço. (The 1% were in 1962 to fix the broken car that took me from Leiria to play basketball in Caldas da Rainha, and in 2017 to take a couple of pictures) |
Turquel
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With so many wonders in Leiria district, who is the guy, crazy enough to recommend... Turquel? Me! And for a single reason - it's the best place to see... us. Home town is home town, and Turquel, without special attractions it's close to everything and proud of its hospitality. Really, it's not a bad idea, but, please, announce yourself in advance! |
Vieira de Leiria
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To develop
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Vimeiro
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Good neighbours Vimeiro is a calm and welcoming village close to Turquel. Not much to see and do, but a nice population trying to produce the best fruits. With a reasonable success. |