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Algarve |
Other opinions
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My favorite destinations in Algarve:
*** Not to be missed: Lagos ** Very Interesting: Silves, Sagres, Tavira * Interesting: Faro, Castro Marim, Portimão, Odeceixe, Alcoutim Cacela Velha, Vila Real de Santo António Beaches: Carvoeiro, Rocha, Albufeira, Falésia, Oura, Armação de Pera, Manta Rota Monte Gordo |
The area west of Lagos is... foreigner land.
This means that we, Portuguese prefer to go east of Lagos.
Between Lagos and Sagres, the main vacation area is Praia da Luz. English and Nordic people do have here the needed sun, in a not so expensive nor crowded ambiance. But the colder water (1-2º less than in the east), the more windy weather and higher surf don't attract us.
As a matter of fact, we love to be abroad, but... in the other countries.
In the old days, this nice village perched in the hills was the first look of Algarve for all those who travelled to the sun. With the opening of the highway, it turned out of the way, missed inland.
For more than 20 years I forgot it, until I saw an old picture.
How will it be today, with desertification growing around it? Really out of the beaten path, it is something different to see in the way, if travelling with time.
I will not forget!
A weekend destination
More than 80% of the Portuguese elect Algarve as their top destination in weekend, specially in the long weekends allowed by holidays at the beginning or end of the week. Then, the roads become congested, hotels get full and prices rise. But there's always a solution for everyone, and a diversity of options - beach, of course, but also history, gastronomy, wild places and lively nightlife. The only indispensable thing is... sun. But he uses to be there.
A Holiday destination
Algarve water uses to be 2 or 3 degrees warmer than the western coast, and that makes all the difference. From hotels to camping, from children to senior people, couples or singles, everybody finds easily their own program in Algarve (even those who use the sea as a pretext to go there, but end getting no time or mood to go there).Western area (barlavento) uses to have predominance of foreigners, eastern coast (sotavento) has more Portuguese. But all the Algarve is a floating multicultural population where sun is business.
More than 80% of the Portuguese elect Algarve as their top destination in weekend, specially in the long weekends allowed by holidays at the beginning or end of the week. Then, the roads become congested, hotels get full and prices rise. But there's always a solution for everyone, and a diversity of options - beach, of course, but also history, gastronomy, wild places and lively nightlife. The only indispensable thing is... sun. But he uses to be there.
A Holiday destination
Algarve water uses to be 2 or 3 degrees warmer than the western coast, and that makes all the difference. From hotels to camping, from children to senior people, couples or singles, everybody finds easily their own program in Algarve (even those who use the sea as a pretext to go there, but end getting no time or mood to go there).Western area (barlavento) uses to have predominance of foreigners, eastern coast (sotavento) has more Portuguese. But all the Algarve is a floating multicultural population where sun is business.
Albufeira
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I spent almost 20 years without going to Albufeira.
Once "my capital" of Algarve, the boom of construction spoilt the traditional fishing village that I knew, replaced by... a forest of concrete and cars. I went there some weeks ago, and, prepared to the worst, I was not shocked. It's heavy commerce by the seaside, as expected, copying the Spanish mass lodging and catering patterns, but... Algarve is still there. The beaches keep wide and clean, the sun shines, the fish is fresh, local cuisine was preserved and enhanced, so, if this suits your plans, Albufeira may be your place. |
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By the Guadiana After several decades passing nearby, I decided, this time, to make the detour needed to visit Alcoutim. Good idea! It's a nice small city, proud of his history and traditions, and with a good look over a nice part of the river. |
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Main Church Located by the river, the church of "S. Salvador" was initially built in the 14th century, enlarged in the 16th in Renaissance style. and restored in 1949, respecting as far as possible the old image. |
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Fluvial Beach We read that Alcoutim has a fluvial beach; we searched for it, but we didn't see it. Lots of boats, a nice tranquility by the river, music coming from Spain just across, a nice scenery, but no idea about the beach. |
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Facing Spain A river separating two countries, two cultures, two cities, but everything seeming so close, so linked, that I had this funny experience: there was a popular festivity in Alcoutim, but the sound of the music came from across the river. The same festivity? The same saint? Just a coincidence? |
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A family's beach Maybe the best "family beach" of Algarve. The long coast goes from shallow and wide, to rocky and secluded, filling all kinds of expectation. Lodging is easy, with all kinds of solution, from good hotels to camping, with many familiar houses close to the beach. The only problem in Armação de Pera is that you have to share water and sand with... many, all the time. |
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West end The western end of the beach is its most beautiful area. The wild rocks compose strange formations and become a sort of amusement park for kids. The only problem is being a little far from town, so, in the heat of the day, you'd better take your car, but parking is the usual nightmare. |
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East end The eastern end of the town (not of the beach, that continues for several kilometers until Galé) is the best to families with small kids. There are no stairs to reach the beach, that is shallow and quiet. Some private houses to rent in this area of town make it easier to kids, and I used it several times, when the kids were small. |
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Fisherman's beach
The beach in Armação de Pera is long, with several accesses descending the cliffs, not to high, but, in the central area, high enough to become uncomfortable, specially with children. When our kids were small, we spent there three successive summers, renting a home in the western tip of the beach (Fisherman's beach), where the land is shallow, almost at sea level.It's the quietest and most comfortable area, and the more affordable solution after the camping park, not far. |
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Main Beach The long stripe of fine sand, lining the hotels and apartment buildings, are the core zone of this popular beach. The commercial concessions fill the area, and you are "invited" to book a canopy or chairs, but there's free space to everybody, if you refuse to spend money in a shade. I must confess that I prefer the eastern tip, calmer and with easier accesses. |
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In the old days, this nice village perched in the hills was the first look of Algarve for all those who travelled to the sun. With the opening of the highway, it turned out of the way, missed inland.
For more than 20 years I forgot it, until I saw an old picture. How will it be today, with desertification growing around it? Really out of the beaten path, it is something different to see in the way, if travelling with time. I will not forget! |
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I stayed in Altura for a week 20 years ago. I went back there last month, and... couldn't recognize it. I mean, the only thing that I remembered was the hotel that we used, the only high building in several kilometers of coast. Big construction (with wiser criteria than commonly seen in Algarve) new roads and streets, and a lively place. Altura is a beach that I may consider in future vacations. I've been there again - it didn't change much, and that is good. |
Cacela
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Out of the main touristy area, this small village by the sea has invested in serious recuperation work, enhancing its traditional look. It is not comfortable to reach the beach, but the views are great. You may see my Cacela page. |
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A small beach, sometimes overcrowded as many in Algarve, is located in a beautiful area of the coast. With plenty of accommodation (as everywhere else in the coast, as a matter of fact) it's a good place to stay and to start a boat trip following the coast. |
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Algar Seco
The most beautiful spot around Carvoeiro is this strange rock formation, used to shelter a bar. Erosion is dictating its laws, (with men's help), but it's still possible to see some odd formations. One doubt: Is it still there the panther that I caught in a 1975's photo? Since I had no answer I must go there and check! Maybe this summer, since Carvoeiro is my first option to next vacation in Algarve. |
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Big changes I've been in Castro Marim in 1975 (slept in the priest's house - old stories!). Thirty four years later the essential remains the same, but it was made a noticeable effort to embellish the city. |
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Castle This castle is the result of many cultures and wars. Located in a privileged place to protect the river, the oldest identified wall comes from the 8th century BC. Romans, developed it, and were followed by Vandals and Muslims, until the christian conquest in 1242. There are remains of all those people, but the earthquake of 1755 forced a large reconstruction. In summer it is now used as base for medieval festivities. |
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The second fort It is not common two forts side-by-side in the same city. It just happened that the old Moorish castle was not suitable for the war against Spain, ended in 1640, and the king decided to build a new stronghold, named St. Sebastian fort, because it was built replacing a shrine devoted to that saint. |
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"Revelim"
In a hill not far from the castle, there's a small fortification that was recently recovered, the Revelim of St. Anthony. With a chapel, and a windmill, this is also the main reception point for tourists, with a new centre to explain the territory. |
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St. Anthony shrine In the fort of St. Anthony, created during the war to restore independence, won in 1640, king João IV ordered the construction of this small chapel, still showing its original characteristics. |
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Territory Interpretation
Since 2009 that we may see atop a hill in Castro Marim a new building announced as the Interpretation Centre of the land. It is a structure dedicated to help those tourists that want to learn about the local toponymy. It is not a museum but a good sightseeing point with good information. |
We were there at night, and couldn't see it working, but only the mosquitoes disturbed the excellent views
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Medieval Days
They call it "Medieval Days" but the heat during the day turns them into... "Medieval Nights". It's a nice idea, gathering thousands of visitors from Algarve or Spain. The program in not exactly something new - and we saw that they, wisely, used a lot Óbidos and Spanish experience - but it is a good alternative to cool a bit after a day in the beach. I think that it is a program to repeat each year by the end of August. |
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For wild places lovers, the western coast immediately north of S. Vicente cape is a paradise. Fabulous landscape, with secluded or wide sandy beaches, broken rocks evidencing millions of years of geological history, a preserved fauna, all gathers to make the weekend or day trip a very relaxing and heady day. Its only problem is that, getting there means car or... very long trekking. |
Faro
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The capital of Algarve and its big city, Faro is not the best place to enjoy the beach - the laguna of Ria Formosa puts the sea several kilometers away. However, as the biggest city it is a lively place, close to several good beaches, with the strange coincidence of having one of the most wild and empty beaches, in the island of Faro. Of course, several points in the island have the usual big amount of people (mainly by the bridge and the camping, but, stretching for several kilometers it is not difficult to find a wide and empty spot. |
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The highest point of Algarve is a great idea for a short trip in the wild, far from the sea. Fresh water, a different landscape, "medronho", typical sweets and rural life are good additional reasons to browse the real Algarve out of touristy path. |
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This is the town that is surrounded by some of the most beautiful beaches of Algarve, being also one of the areas where foreigners exceed Portuguese all the year round. Of course, any visit to Algarve must include Lagos, one of the top places to stay, however, the water in the eastern side of Algarve is generally one or two degrees warmer, which means that, for Fernanda, Lagos is only a beautiful place to pass to or from her Algarve. |
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Ponta da Piedade
If I had to elect the best location in Algarve it would be – Lagos. The town is nice, but not particularly interesting. But the beaches and the entire coast are wonderful. Of course there’s a strong competition of Carvoeiro (but there the town is not much more than touristic construction. Of course there’s Sagres, but there the water is colder and the sea, sometimes… Of course there’s Silves and his historic personality, but it is away from the sea, and Algarve is mostly sea. No! For me... Lagos, but you’re allowed to think differently. |
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Dona Ana Lagos is surrounded by some of the most beautiful beaches of Algarve. Dona Ana is one of them, at walking distance from town, but for a frequent use, you'd better find accommodation in nearby hotels and apartments, or to use a car (parking is paid and difficult). |
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The Castle Built in the 13th century, the castle was seriously damaged by Lisbon's earthquake. A recent effort in reconstruction rebuilt several hundred meters of walls, respecting their original doors and towers. Address: SW town centre |
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The Revenge
You know that, once, we had a king who took our army to a battle in Morocco, where he was defeated and killed, losing our independence to the Spanish in 1580 (if you didn't know now you do!). In revenge someone decided to build a statue in Lagos. Very appreciated by some specialists, I call it the hockey keeper, and think that it is king Sebastião second disaster. |
My picture is the third disaster. It's not a revenge, only age and technical mistakes.
Fun Alternatives: If you have time, between two beers in nearby bars, try to ask someone the whole story of the statue, or translate the text in http://tapornumporco.blogspot.com/2005/11/lagos-o-d-sebastio-de-joo-cutileiro.html. It's funny.
Fun Alternatives: If you have time, between two beers in nearby bars, try to ask someone the whole story of the statue, or translate the text in http://tapornumporco.blogspot.com/2005/11/lagos-o-d-sebastio-de-joo-cutileiro.html. It's funny.
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A disappointment. Largely promoted by the pink magazines, this beach didn't convince me. Very wide beach, distant from the densely constructed area, it has nothing important to challenge its neighbors Monte Gordo or Altura except... some pink business. |
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Marking the Transition Located exactly where the Alentejo gives place to Algarve, this nice town is an interesting example of the transition between both regions, which means that you may profit the tranquility of Alentejo, with the climate of Algarve (not in the water...). |
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Beach
It's Algarve, for sure, but don't expect very warm water. Its beautiful beach is located in the western coast, which means cold waters, though not so cold as in the northern coast. The mouth of a small river gives some fun to the bath. If you want a less frequented area, you better try some other beaches in the area, north or south, with some good wild beaches very near. |
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This town at very short distance from Faro is in a second line of touristy destinations, because its good beaches are not very easy to reach, some of them needing a boat. However, Olhão deserves three special references:
- It's the best place to watch the typical roofs of Algarve, in a wise respect to the local traditions. - Fish is generally sold in the market much cheaper than in Faro, largely paying the trip if you are cooking at home. - If you want savage and lonely beaches, you can't find better elsewhere. |
Oura
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Included in Albufeira broad area, this is one of my favorite beaches in Algarve. I spent there a good week many years ago, and in my recent visit I kept enjoying the place - the tremendous construction in the area didn't spoil too much this special place, at least by the sea. More than 20 years later I was back to Oura, and I enjoyed what I saw. Algarve was spoilt by heavy construction, and Oura is no exception, but the beach keeps the beauty that makes it one of my favorites in the area. |
Portimão
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Backing the imposing beach of Praia da Rocha, Portimão is the second city of Algarve, and one of the most famous places of Portugal to eat sardines. The natural harbor in the mouth of Arade are full of fishing and recreational boats, being the main departure point to the trips along the coast, that you shouldn't miss. Rocha is the most famous beach (and the most accessible), but Vau, Alvor or Ferragudo are also good options. |
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The area west of Lagos is... foreigner land.
This means that we, Portuguese prefer to go east of Lagos. Between Lagos and Sagres, the main vacation area is Praia da Luz. English and Nordic people do have here the needed sun, in a not so expensive nor crowded ambiance. But the colder water (1-2º less than in the east), the more windy weather and higher surf don't attract us. As a matter of fact, we love to be abroad, but... in the other countries. |
Sagres
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The most historic place in Algarve, Sagres is a mandatory visit. Don't expect much, except the cultural references, and the dramatic landscapes. There are a few beaches secluded by the abrupt cliffs, but the water is colder than eastbound, and the sea may also be rougher than elsewhere. |
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One of the most historic places in Algarve is one of the least known by the Portuguese, included... me. Beach is the common destination and only foreigners like to travel inland watching the country. It's an error that I will correct. This year I stayed in the eastern side of Algarve, and saw something there (Tavira and Cacela Velha, for instance). Next time in the central or western side I will leave some time to Silves. |
Tavira
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Most Portuguese skip Tavira. When they go to Algarve the essential is... sea, and Tavira is distant enough from the sea to become a secondary destination. When we "are" in Algarve, and decide to leave the sea, for variation, Tavira is too close to the sea to be the alternative, and we prefer to go inland. That's why Tavira is mainly for foreigner eyes, more interested in the contact with the whole and real Algarve, and, for that, Tavira is one of the best solutions. |
Tavira is also the best point to reach lone and remote beaches. Always needing a boat, those who hate crowds may find from Tavira the best wild and hard to reach beaches of Portugal
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One of the most exclusive places of Algarve, Vale do Lobo is something that... I don't like. It is exclusive because it is expensive, and it is expensive only to be exclusive. Maybe I was unlucky, but all my few experiences there were negative. I didn't swim, but the beach didn't attract me, and I only used restaurants, and bars for the night. All expensive, without any reason - the quality ranged from bad to average, the service was slow and unkind, though professional, and the small unmerited tip was collected with disdain. No, Vale do Lobo is not MY Algarve! |
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In the border Built after Lisbon's earthquake this city follows the plan of central Lisbon. It didn't grow too much, and visit is easy. |
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Commerce with Spanish
Taking advantage of its location by the border, this city has a lively commerce aimed to Spanish, that also attracts locals and the many tourists of the nearby beaches. The straight streets are a sequence of small and varied shops for all needs and tastes. 
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River Influence In a province dominate by the sea, this city is different - the proximity to Spain gives the river a stronger importance, allowing the city to turn its back to the sea. The bridge built near Castro Marim diverted most of the international traffic, but the river remains as the most important element to Vila Real de Santo António. |
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Architecture Built according to the plans to recover Lisbon after the earthquake, this city is a good example of smart architecture. t's central square and surrounding streets are nice to stroll, with a reasonable commercial use (mainly oriented to the many Spanish visitors) |
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Cultural Centre A military building to house the troops that protected the border, became later a market. With the construction of the new market, thirty years ago, the building was adapted to work as a cultural center, receiving the name of Antonio Aleixo, a popular poet, and being used since then by the municipality for all kind of events. |
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Church One of the most relevant buildings around the beautiful main square, is the church of "Nossa senhora da Encarnação". Built with the city in the 18th century, by Marquês de Pombal the church suffered several fires that changed it a lot, though a few panels have been saved. |
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